The first time I went to the Grand Canyon, I was a kid, maybe 7 or even 10. Definitely young. My Mom “saved her quarters” and got us a helicopter tour where we got a birds-eye view of its massiveness. We flew by caves on the canyon walls and even a pack of wild Mustangs. The pilot said this was very rare and it is a stand-out memory for me. I also recall that we rode horses while there. I don’t have much memory of THAT part except I learned that I don’t necessarily do very well in the heat. I was on my horse, (my sister would probably tell you it was named Ginger) and was feeling really sleepy and started hearing an approaching train while my vision narrowed to a pinpoint. I sort of slumped over the saddle horn and I heard the guide call out to my Mom. I passed out for a brief moment and then I just remember a bit of hubbub and them bringing me water and then the ride was over. To this day, I can get really woozy in the heat if I’m not careful.
But, just 2 weeks ago, we went again! This was a bucket list trip for me. The idea was sparked when my Dad, who was in his 70’s at the time, and several of his buddies rode their motorcycles from Arizona for this adventure. They hiked 7 miles down South Kaibab Trail, spent the night in the bottom of the Canyon at Phantom Ranch and then 10 miles up Bright Angel Trail the next day. He told me right before it happened and I was a bit put-out at him that he hadn’t invited me. He said “oh it’s just a bunch of old farts” but I found out later that one of the fellows had a daughter who joined them “but she was a bad-a$$ firefighter!” So, I was sad to not get to have the experience with my Dad, who apparently didn’t realize it was something I would enjoy. Then, in talking with my Mom more recently, I discovered THEY had done the same thing in their 50’s so it was doubly impactful. I have had this idea rolling around for a number of years, to retrace their steps but let me tell you…the lottery system of reservations at Phantom Ranch was beyond me! I tried several times. I had friends who tried on my behalf. We COULD NOT get a reservation. As a novice hiker, I am not equipped to overnight camp! So, my trip was going to be in/out in a single day.
My friend, Tanya, and I have been doing “one great thing” each year for our birthdays for a few years now and this year, 2026, we picked the Grand Canyon. We first decided to do Rim-to-Rim at 21 miles. We read and researched and planned it out. We got reservations at the only lodge on the North Rim over a year in advance. The room was pricey ($500+ for one night) but we thought we would earn it through our efforts. Well… God said “No” when a storm unleashed a lightning strike last year on July 4th that lit the Bravo Forest Fire and burned up trails, buildings and the very lodge on the north rim where we (and a whole bunch of others!) had reservations. So, we pivoted and planned to go down our original trail to the Colorado River and back up for 17 miles. Well… God said “No” once again when a mudslide took out access to the bridge we would need to cross on the way up. So… the next plan was to go down South Kaibab Trail, across Tonto Trail to meet Bright Angel Trail for “supposedly 13 miles according to AllTrails app”. More on that later. By now, our husbands were watching videos and hearing us talk about our excitement and they had decided to join us! We all trained together and even planned a little fun in Las Vegas at the end of our hike. So, the time finally arrives. We have our hydration. We have our trail snacks. We have our trail runners, trekking poles and our plan! We have our promises to not go too fast and really savor the experience of the Grand Canyon. We plan to start early and see the sunrise on the canyon walls. My husband has researched the taxi service that will come get us anytime 24/7 — basically, it’s happening!! So, morning of, we wake early and have our hotel breakfast of boiled egg and a bagel. Our water pouches are filled and packs are bulging with more food than 4 people can possibly consume in a day. We drive to the end of our route to park the rental. I call the company to get a driver and the woman says “Yeah, he’s already out a call and has 2 more in front of you. You’ll get there faster by taking the employee shuttle in front of the lodge. It leaves at 6am” No. No. We will miss sunrise! What do you mean “he”? This taxi company has one driver?? So, we decided right then and there, “this Canyon is alive and we are just visiting- we are going to be fluid in our approach”. I mean, control is just an illusion anyway, right? So, we catch our first glimpse of the Grand Canyon as the morning sun is just starting to illuminate the vastness before us.

It’s absolutely breaktaking! And, so BIG! I guess there is no question why it’s called the GRAND Canyon.

We have a little time before the shuttle, so a final bathroom break and our sunrise happens at the bus stop. And this is where we meet an older couple and a younger man. The couple are in their 70’s and just going to see how far they want to go today. They completed rim-to-rim when they were younger “in their 60’s”. They were fit and capable and healthy. We agreed that’s who we want to be when the time comes!
The younger fellow was a solo hiker. We visited just briefly on the shuttle but each stop brought more people and congestion so most of the chatting ended. Finally we arrive at our start point. We take a few “before” pics at the trailhead and begin the descent.


After a few switchbacks a familiar voice calls out “You people are going my pace!” It’s Mitch, the shuttle stop solo hiker. He falls in with us and we make it to the first lookout.

After pics, snacks and water we are off again. I’m thinking “he doesn’t know how often we are planning to stop!”

It’s so strange hiking in the Grand Canyon. You could be walking any dusty trail in any number of places with the view at your feet. You must watch for the next foot placement so you don’t trip or step into donkey doo which is often present from the mule trains. But, every time you stop and look up, it’s like the angels open up and sing. It’s awe-inspiring from all directions!

The views from the bottom are as magnificent as from the top and completely different.

It was just WOW from the get-go. Pictures help my mind recall the experience, but will never express the magnitude of the Grand Canyon.

There’s no water on our first trail. The AllTrails app says it’s 4+ miles. Humph. There are pit toilets and we were glad to see them. We get to the point where Tonto Trail connects and have to decide… do we add 6 miles and go on to the Colorado River?

We elect to just see the river and the bottom of the canyon from here and stick to the plan.

Now comes the part the rangers refer to as “Grand Canyon flat”. Tonto means “fool” in Spanish and, generally, anyone doing the Tonto trail in the heat of the day is certainly considered that. No water, no shade except for 2 small oasises (oasi?) on this 4.6 mile stretch.


Flat being a relative term – but, it is… for the GC! We continue on hike, break, water, snacks, and lots of pictures. Finally, we see green and know that means Havasupai Gardens are up ahead. This is where most hikers take their big breaks. There are pit toilets but, more importantly, water! And, shade! And some really fat and aggressive squirrels who know that hikers = snacks! It’s also where Tonto meets Bright Angel Trail for the ascent back to the top.

From down here, it looks quite foreboding. It’s 4+ miles UP. Fortunately, there are rest houses along the way. We take a nice longer break here, feet up for some and talk about how far we’ve come.


Comparing maps and apps, everyone shows a longer trip than the AllTrails. That’s cool. We are here for views and the experience. So… several handfuls of nuts and dried fruit later, we begin the trudge up and out. Some have refilled water. Some are showing some effort. This is where your brain goes into “power save” mode and words come short, fast and only on your exhale. The distance up feels more than 4 miles. We took multiple breaks. The views were just as phenomenal, yet, somehow sweeter knowing we were getting closer. Our pace stayed consistent for when we were moving, but our resets came closer. At the 3 mile resthouse, we wet towels under the spigots (cold and very chlorine-y but YAY!) and draped them over our shoulders. Game-changer! This is also where we picked up Kristin. Kristin was another solo hiker and she had been all the way to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Canyon. She was trying to make it out by 3pm to meet up with her folks at the rim. She was just about gassed out. We immediately adopted her into our posse and she rebounded after some rest and fuel. Kristin would hopscotch us, starting early until we would pass her and then we would break and she would catch us. But, we weren’t leaving without her! This stretch is where Mitch really came in clutch. He would show us how many thousands of feet we had ascended and was a great source of inspiration, quietly and factually encouraging us. This final piece of the hike goes up over 3000 feet to the rim. There were piles of poop and piss puddles to dodge when you weren’t sure your feet wanted to mind your brain. This is where I got my big lesson of the trip. It came as… “you can focus on the poo or you can focus on the view.” Ah! I won’t forget it.

We needed each other and the rhythmic motion of feet with trekking poles to get us up to the top. Rangers say “Going down is optional, but going up is mandatory”. There is no chairlift or gondola or big, burly mountain man coming to carry you out. It’s you and your team. This is where I struggle to see how I might fare on a solo adventure. In our group, no one gets left behind. When the last hiker would catch up, we often had them lead – and the group stayed coherent.

We shared laughter, pickle juice and peanut butter pretzels, but more than that, we shared the experience that had long been floating around in my heart. If you haven’t been to the Grand Canyon, consider it. I will be forever changed by its grandeur. At the end, our tracking devices showed 9 hours and 42 minutes to travel 15.6 miles. It was beyond amazing. It’s so awesome to see the native beauty our world has to offer. I gained some confidence in doing this hard thing. I breathed pristine air. I checked a long-time item off my bucket list with some of my favorite people. I made a new friend (or two!)

And, now I have real appreciation for just exactly how GRAND the Grand Canyon truly is.






































